I can not overstate this enough: I usually find menswear tedious and deeply uninteresting. But I have always adored Alexandre Plokhov. And, like most, was sad at the shuttering of his line Cloak a few years back (the Cloak store had the most amazing conjoined black leather tufted sofas and I often wonder where they ended up when the store closed).
Alexandre Plokhov is back with his own eponymous line and his same attention to fabric, cut, and pushing the boundaries of menswear, but without making men look like clowns. Or as he says in this interview on Gilt MAN :
The proposition is: Try it. It’s not going to make you feel like a fool.
I think that is an important acknowledgement to make. I think a lot of men would like to branch out a bit with their clothing, but need to trust the designer. Men seem to be deeply distrustful of menswear designers and so often fall back on traditional aka straight viewpoints that have a sense of history or heritage. A perception of something more substantial or serious I suppose.
And so while I think there are pieces here that would be challenging to most men’s ideas about what they would wear, I think there are some very wearable coats, vests and jackets that men could easily integrate into their existing wardrobes.
Also I think it’s interesting that he talks about the influence Cormac McCarthy has had on his work, in that he doesn’t talk about the aesthetics of the characters or the landscape but about the construction of the novel itself:
The way his sentences are constructed…Everything is intentional. And that intentionality is what I’d like to convey. There are no accidents. And that’s probably the most important difference between what I did before and what I do now. Craft, technique, honing—that is what’s important to me as I get older.
I wish all designers were this thoughtful and considered.